I ordered some hair goop from Dax last week. They ended up sending me all sorts of free samples and a USA made unbreakable comb. This company is OK by me. I use Wave and Groom right now. I was curious to try out the High Life stuff though (and see what it smelled like.) The army stuff I already had, but just threw it in for the photo op.
I’m not a fan of the scent of the military stuff. Smells like Grandpa in a Dollar General store. The High Life smells like a coconut candle. It is tolerable. Wave and Groom smells great.. Kinda like pumpkin pie or an antique store during a Christmas sale… Let the exp-hair-aments begin.
I need to use petrolatum based stuff in my hair to get it to lay down. It doesn’t wash out of your hair and you leave Soul-Glo stains on your pillow. It’s a small price to pay for hair control though. The best thing I’ve found to get it out of your hair is Suave Groom & Clean. Better than Dawn dish soap.
Here’s the denim vest I made last week. It ended up being way too large compared to the 38” pattern size I made it from. I didn’t finish the arm holes because I’m going to tailor it to fit me now. I do like the way the pattern handles the pockets compared to a Levis jean jacket. I didn’t install the cinch tabs on the back because I don’t like how they can get caught on a car seat. This is still a work in progress
Shirt number four turned out pretty decently. I tried to take photos of most of the seams. It still took me about nine hours in total from pinning pattern pieces to finishing button holes. I’m almost up to a work week’s worth of shirts though.
crookedcop asked: Stumbled across your tumblr and lost 2 hours of my life (that's a compliment). I recently acquired a 72 CL450. I'm told the valve springs are shot and I'll need new ones. You have any history with this issue? Also, I'm hunting down crank case covers if you know where to locate other than CL or eBay. Thanks, Parker
Old bikes are a pandora’s box usually. I’ve never owned a 450. I’m more well versed on the 350 and 175 which are similar to each other (single overhead camshaft as opposed to your double overhead camshaft.) I’ve replaced valve springs before but don’t know how it’d be the only problem an engine had. Typically valve guides, valve guide seals, the cam chain and tensioner system probably all need attention if the springs have had enough time to ‘go bad’ (ie: become too weak to shut the valves quickly enough.) The 450 is pretty simple to work on though. I’d probably troll ebay for parts or put an ad on craigslist looking for stuff locally. Prices are all over the map because some people collect the 450 and others throw them out with the trash (much like CB750, 550, 350, etc…) But my guess is that there are more problems than just one if the engine has been torn into. What I find most of the time (especially if I get them cheap) is that the previous owners have no idea what they are talking about and are just repeating something their neighbor told them while drunk, haha!
A roll of Fuji Neopan 100 I put through my Leica M2 last Sunday just to make sure I hadn’t forgotten how to take photos. I also was wanting to use a collapsable 50mm Voigtlander Heliar Classic lens I’ve had forever, but neglect to use. It has a really cool signature when shot wide open. At least I think so. I need to see if I can snag a 100 foot roll of Neopan before it becomes unobtainable.
I finally got to shoot the Mosin Nagant for the first time today. It shoots pretty good. I fed three different types of ammo through it. The polishing of the bolt and the thorough cleaning of the chamber seems to have paid off. The bolt is smooth after 50 rounds fired in the gun. All is well it seems.
Here’s the paisley shirt I made last weekend. The interfacing is a bit too stiff, so the collar, cuffs, and button strips are overly stiff compared to my other two shirts. They were out of the interfacing I used for those shirts. I also screwed up the collar a bit on this one. The fabric was harder to work with than my first two shirts. However, the nomex thread I used sewed very well.
salmonpete asked: Where did you get your shirt pattern, and do you like the fit? You have inspired me to try my hand at it. Any info would be great, thanks!
It’s Simplicity pattern number 1544. Everything fits me well but the sleeves are baggy. Otherwise I like that it’s constructed to be work untucked (but you can tuck it in.) The tails hang right and it has just the right mount of shape (kinda like an athletic cut or mod fit.) The sleeves need some work, but it’s easy to take sleeves in once the shirt is done.
Make : Vermilyea Pelle
Film : Voortex Productions
Good lord, the amount of equipment and skill to use said equipment. This takes a lot of time, patience, and education to make happen. I’ve been following his instagram for a while and it’s clear why his items look top notch. I’m so scatterbrained in my free time that I’ll never be able to realize a dedicated workshop like this for any hobby I ever attempt. I have a lot of respect for this guy!
thatkalifornian asked: What was your process for polishing the bolt? Sand paper grit, how many times did you go over it, finishing polish, etc.
I started with 400 to get past the machining marks from the Russians. Once that was complete, I used 1000, then 2000 sandpaper. It’s pretty shiny at that point but I wanted a mirror shine. So I used red rubbing compound on a dremel felt wheel. After that I used Mother’s aluminum polish on a different felt wheel. The trick is to get all the dirty work done with the 400 grit. Sand it against the machining marks until you’re only leaving 400 grit marks. Then jump down to smaller grit in steps. Also, you need to know what metal is OK to remove and what metal is not OK to remove. I polished the ‘parts that rub’ on the bolt but didn’t remove any metal because they’re critical to the way the gun operates. I watched a couple of videos on youtube. I don’t think it’ll let me post links in these messages, so search for this video in youtube: QLL20Oh4P8M and then this one: JXRFBNbTl9I . The second video describes the primary problem with the rifles having a stiff bolt. I tried to prepare for that with sanding the bolt face ever so slightly.. Mostly I polished the wings on the bolt face to a mirror shine. That dude working on guns looks a lot rougher than me. I take my time and I’m more worried about the looks of the gun probably than he is. My goal was to get mine looking like chrome. What gets the chrome shine is using a dremel with a felt wheel and a polishing compound of some sort. You need the high speed to get the mirror look.
The making of a photo from Sunday’s roll of film. We went wandering just to get out and shoot some film. The poor gal still had foam coming out of her nose and her right rear hoof was broken right off.
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Hasselblad 503cx, 50mm, Ilford HP5+, Kodak D76 1+3
Four grades of sandpaper and two polishing compounds with the dremel later, and the bolt for my Mosin Nagant looks pretty OK. I’m just taking care of what the Russians didn’t have time to in 1942. They were a bit busy at the time. This actually did make a noticible difference in the smoothness of the action. I did it to prevent the bolt from hanging up once I start shooting it, but got hung up making it pretty as well.
I bought my first ever military rifle last night. A few friends bought Mosin Nagant rifles recently, so I figured I might as well get one so we can buy a bunch of surplus ammo and go to the range. So, knowing next to nothing about them I went through the ‘pick out of two’ process at Mills Fleet Farm and this is the one I chose. It’s a 1942 Izhevsk model which is probably one of the most common. It came with the classic kit which includes two ammo bags, an oil can, some tools… And it was completely slathered in cosmoline. So, I spent the whole night tearing it down and removing the cosmoline from all the parts. I also removed the shellac from the stock, sanded it, and oiled it to make it look a bit nicer. The end result is a numbers matching rifle that looks like it’s going to work out just fine. The bayonet even fits perfectly.